Chiang Mai Cute

I didn’t actually learn the origin story, but these smiling faces set into chubby cheeks are everywhere. Temples, restaurants, massage parlors, hotels, crosswalks, markets and bathrooms all have some cute face staring at you. It’s kinda cute I guess.

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And finally, not to be filed under cute, but rather uncomfortably realistic is this:

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In most of the Chiang Mai temples, they have these pious (presumably wax, hopefully not stuffed) replicas of former holy men. It must be hard to be a monk and constantly feel watched by these simultaneously dead yet judging eyes.

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Chiang Mai ~ Babylonian Restaurant

Chiang Mai ~ Babylonian Restaurant

After stuffing myself with salty noodles and mango juice, I was aimlessly strolling through the same same stalls of stuff for sale and saw a small sign. It said “Iraq Restaurant.” It’s the kind of sign that you could chuff off as touristy or be intrigued. I was going. But not now, I was too full. In the hours leading up do my train departure, I ambled back to Babylon, in the bustling moments before the night market opens and ordered the 450 baht (<15US$) set. It included naan bread, rice, hummus, falafel, veggie curry, lamb meat, 2 chicken legs, tabuleh and a Coke. Each bite was delicious, but the falafel won best taste. This meal sustained me from 4 pm, when I ate it, until I arrived in Bangkok almost 16 hours later. Recommended.

Laos ~ Places to Stay

4,000 Islands:

Mama Piang’s– It’s 20,000 kip (<3US$) price tag per night remains my cheapest accommodation yet. AND, that was for my own big queen bed with mosquito net. It was a great place. Mama and Papa are a little wild, but their kids are darling. It’s right in the middle of the one street between the docks and the bridge to Don Khong. She cooks one of the best laap dishes I had in Laos.

Pakse, Savanakhet, Tha Khek, Pak Beng, Huay Xai:

You’re on your own here. Use your gut and pick a guesthouse. There is not much to plan for here. Each place has about one main street along the river with lots of options. I did stay in the Mekong Hotel in Savanakhet, which had large rooms with TV’s and fan for about 100,000 kip (12US$).

Vientiane:

Sihome Hostel– This place should win awards. Great common area with pool table and beers. There is a padded room with movies and flat screen TV. I came home around midnight and there were some British blokes watching Premier League on the communal TV. All around good atmosphere. Beds are nice, but bathrooms cramped and great location at the beginning of the riverside walk. Absolutely best breakfast for a hostel: Bacon, tasty poached eggs and bread with coffee. They helped us pick the hostel in the next town, Vang Vieng.

Vang Vieng:

BounTang Guesthouse– Fabulous private rooms. Brand new, air-con, balcony, and clean. For 100,000 kip, I bought a private room with best view you can get of the mesmerizing Vang Vieng landscape. They also offer air-con dorms for half the price. Only stayed here one night, but going to bed with the lightning striking over the looming mountains in the distance and waking up to the sunny green hills was quite an experience.

EasyGo Hostel– This place is a dump. It has a small, filthy common area that keeps some of the rain off of you. But judging by the overflowing ashtrays, hasn’t been cleaned in a long time. The showers were clogged with plastic bottles and hair. Mosquito nets were provided. There is one girl who works the front desk and the only face I saw in three days. I understand a hostel is too much work for one girl, but eventually, they must hire a cleaning person or else it’s only going to get worse. It’s cheap though.

Luang Prabang:

LPQ Backpackers- A place full of rules. They rent towels, close the gates early, don’t allow billiards after ten, turn off air-con between 9-10 a.m. but offer a free egg breakfast. The rooms and toilets are nice and clean. It’s off to the end of town, so a slight walk is entailed.

Chiang Mai ~ Night Bazaar

I couldn’t find good food despite everything I read about this city. I ate a noodle dish that literally was without taste. I encountered a bite with some black pepper and nearly jumped out of my seat with excitement. I walked into a good looking place on Saturday night at 8pm, ravenous with hunger and delighted to find a clean restaurant, where I was immediately met with disappointment as they were closing the kitchen! At 8pm on a Saturday, good time to close down!? I was stuck eating Mexican burritos for the 3rd time in as many days. Because when you’re hungry and in a strange town, you take what you can get; especially when places are closing down an hour after sundown. I kept asking around and everyone said, “Night market, good food. Go there, many things to eat.” I went and it was cheap and salty. This city doesn’t get my award for fulfilling the culinary delights for which Thailand is famous.

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You buy a coupon book, and find the food you want among the stalls. I went for soups.

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The first was Khao Soi–a noodle dish with spicy red curry broth.

The second was just called yellow noodle soup and recommended by the loquacious employee.

Here’s another nice Khao Soi.

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After all that salt and curry powder, I needed some mango. We took several pictures until she was pleased with this one.

Night Walk in Chiang Mai

The jasmine heavy in the humid night air, an almost soundless alley covered with potted plants, a group of troubadours singing Beatles’ songs in a bar. It’s a nice place. A moat surrounds the old town. Temples scattered throughout the streets. The first stop in Thailand offered my first rubber bodied Thai massage in years and too much Mexican food. Western food dominates the walking paths where I walked.

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Tiger Kingdom in Chiang Mai

They are the largest cat in the world. They are indisputably gorgeous. They are also killing machines capable of taking down elephants. They are now being stroked like an indolent kitty in a sunbeam. What a dream come true.

However, I was worried about how these majestic felines would be contained. I’ve heard the stories of drugging or over-punishment upon them, so research was necessary. Tiger Kingdom in Chiang Mai has a great system, and the animals seem happy. Some cages are still too small, and judging by their bellies, possibly over-fed for safety. But, unlike the Bangkok tiger sanctuary where the cats are kept on chains, these tigers are free to walk around (as long as it’s not in the direction of a visitor). I paid about 45US$ for the full package of tigers–smallest, small, medium and large. The smallest tigers were only 3 months old!

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Such a baby face, full of curiosity. We moved on to the small (5-6 months) and medium next.

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This tiger loved me! He showed me his belly and then started stretching his long legs and giant padded paws all over me just like domestic cats. So amazing to interact with these endangered creatures.

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This was the big girl. Our trainer said she was aggressive.

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My love for cats evinced.

Thank you tigers for making me happy. I hope you are too.

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Luang Prabang ~ Kuang Si Waterfalls

Charter a tuk-tuk or mini van to take you the 40 minutes to this paradisaical locale. First, we hike up the hill, and meet the bears, rather playful and seemingly happy. They are the Asian Bears, sometimes called Sun Bear or Moon Bear, depending on the color stripe on their chest. These guys were climbing and scratching and fun to watch, but that cold water was calling to my sweaty backpacked back.

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It’s not long before being greeted with the dream like waterfalls and miraculously colored blue water. I had seen no pictures of this before, so it was all a wonderful surprise.

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I dove right in…

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Quiet, cold water mixed with that soothing sound of flowing water created an atmosphere of cheek hurting smiles.

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After soaking for a while, I took a walk higher into the trees. I met a guy on the trail and we hiked talking about mutual interests such as The Mighty Ducks’ movies. The jungle trees were dense and old.

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Because of poor planning, I was only able to spend a much too brief half day here. I could have stayed longer. Such a pleasure even if it went too fast. It was like that 5$ truffle you buy at the mall, you only get one delicious bite, but it’s usually one to remember.

Buddha ~ Luang Prabang’s Ornate Temples

There are over 30 temples in the quaint UNESCO heritage city of Luang Prabang, Laos. Many are small courtyards, some are hidden from plain sight beyond trees or houses, others on distant hillsides, but most are within the city center. I took a walk on a dreary, rainy day and snapped some photos of the many seated Buddhas.

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