We were buying some dog food from an outlet store in Seoul’s distant suburbs and stopped into a cute dog cafe. This one had it all:
A ball play area.
A bathing station with blow drying box (on the bottom left).
A pool with diving board.
Food and drinks for the owners of the pups. It was a mixed meat grill, but definitely no dog on this menu!
At nighttime, the lights came on and the dogs mostly just sniffed around after their initial excitement upon arriving.
It’s an exceptional place to hang if you have a four legged friend who needs to stretch their legs or take a swim. The food is pretty good and the environment is relaxed.
After the dog party, we had a noraebang (karaoke) party at Junco, a place that is more expensive than other singing rooms because they have food available–we ate some fried nibblers, ramen and seaweed soup. Jordyn sang in Japanese and I did my best version of Proud Mary.
One Sunday, we got moving too late for the beach, so we headed to an island north of Incheon at the headwaters of Seoul’s Han River, adjacent to North Korea, Ganghwado (강화도). There were ancient Bronze Age settlers long ago who made some rock sculptures, but since then, there’s been very little happening on this island. Although there’s two episodes of white people trying to open up the Hermit Kingdom that didn’t end well on Ganghwado. Once, the Koreans massacred some French missionaries who were preaching there leading to a brief French invasion of the island in the 1870’s. And another, the USS Sherman got stranded in Pyongyang in 1866, sailors tried to establish a connection, wires got crossed and the Koreans killed the sailors and burned the ship. A few years later, American forces occupied Ganghwado “peacefully” until they were fired on, resulting in a brief skirmish before reoccupying.
We stopped for a late lunch and ate some bibimbap (비빔밥) and doenjang (된장) soup at a cute little place with their own garden.
Then, we went to the “beach.” I cannot express how much of a letdown Korea’s muddy beaches are. The sand is soft, the sun is hot, the beer is cold, the ramen is spicy, but the water is missing! Korea’s West Sea, China’s Yellow Sea is a tidal nightmare for bathers but a boon for clam diggers.
Mud, as far as the eye can see. When there is water, it’s ankle deep. So, there was no swimming, but plenty of muddy squelching sounds as we walked along the shore.
There was an old fortress on a hill and Hershey kept guard as we took some pictures of the ships docked in the mud port.
The shallow water makes a good environment for shrimping, so we indulged in some fried goodness, took some home in a bag and good luck guessing what that man is scooping. Jordyn wanted to buy so much, I told her, “one unknown red seafood mush is plenty.” She complied, but bought those little mud crabs marinated in soy sauce too.
There are car transport ferries to get you around to the many little surrounding islands.
There was a Jindo dog statue and Hershey is the Japanese version.
We had a good time, and brought home some delicious ginseng makkeolli in addition to the shrimp, weird seafood and crabs.
We exited the subway, squinting in the June sun, onto the busy streets of Jongno, with old ladies hustling and old men playing Chinese checkers. Everybody’s shoes seemed to be half on and their hats half off. Also, people are still pissed about Park Geun-hye, except these folks were pissed that she was arrested. Loud and repetitive it was.
When I crave Mexican food in Seoul, disappointment is sure to follow. Besides Vatos and a few other places, the Korean food from America’s southern neighbor is mostly forgettable. Add Julio’s in Jongno to that list. The food isn’t bad, but it isn’t great either. It fills you up but doesn’t satisfy the way a really good taco can. We ate decent shrimp fajitas with runny queso and over sweet guacamole. The salsa needed some more spice and the burrito was very ricey. The saucy enchilada was a belly warming winner.
After lunch, we hit the road walking. We passed through the Cheongyecheong river, the little creek that was refurbished from a dilapidated raised city highway. On this early summer weekend, the side street was full of identical taco trucks and fried food for sale.
We bought Jordyn some fancy Sisley face lotion in the posh Shinsegae Department Store while enjoying the A/C then back onto the sticky evening streets under the shadows and cool breezes of Namsan mountain.
In February 2018, the winter Olympics will come to Pyeongchang, Korea, so the push is on for a big show of Korean pride.
Finally, we ended up on what I could only describe as “puppy mill boulevard”. It was store after store of tiny little puppies in windows looking for a home. The crowded glass cages made you think that Koreans were lining up looking for pet doggies, when in fact only about 12% of the 50 million Koreans have dogs. Millions of dogs are caged and tortured for consumption. It’s a brutal practice that was downplayed before the 1988 Olympics and again facing intense criticism before the next one 30 years later. I eat meat; yet, want to hypocritically condemn Asians eating dog meat. It’s not 1952 anymore Korea. Korea is the 11th largest economy in the world and there are BBQ shops on every corner–meat isn’t hard to find. Dog meat should be off the menu, but the suffering of cows, pigs, chickens and the others we consume shouldn’t be discounted just because they aren’t pets. One day, after lab grown meat, synthetic meat or plant based “meat” becomes the normal, we will look back at this time of savagery and be appalled at our behavior.
Hopefully, these cute little mutts licking and pawing the glass will all find decent homes with loving owners who won’t abandon them after they pee on the carpet, all but assuring their fate to end up in those sad metal cages, bound to be boiled.
I know it’s late spring now and this post is overdue, nevertheless, we proceed.
Yangyang is smack in the middle of the two larger and more famous coastal cities of Sokcho and Gangneung. It’s tiny and cute and frozen in the winter. We went there because the Pine Beach Condotel was pet friendly, beachside and turned out to be a nice, clean place. The snow fell the day before and the highway from Seoul was plowed and safe when we arrived at midnight to check in and take a dog walk.
The next morning was bright and sunny, a perfect day for a naked scrub;)
We headed for Sokcho’s most famous seafood shack: Bong-po Meoguri-jip. They specialize in weird seafood that I don’t recognize nor especially enjoy. But Jordyn might be a mermaid who sold her voice to a wicked octopus in exchange for legs by how much she loves the food from the ocean depths.
The mul-hwe (물회) or fresh fish soup is not really fish nor really a soup. It’s sort of a mush of random sea creatures who fell into a fisherman’s trap and a few hours later found themselves shucked and in my bowl. Jordyn also ordered a sea urchin noodle dish which is distinctly mucus in both texture and taste if the mucus was marinated in salt water.
The beer was cold. The squid rings (abayi-sundae) were filled with a tasty paste and there was a nice bit of real crab in the rice salad.
We went to a beachfront temple, Naksansa (낙산사), to waste time before dinner. It was beautiful at sunset and very cold. There was a small museum with little trinkets, old ceramics and paintings from past dynasties.
We took photos of the beautiful scenery as the snow had settled and become part of the wintry landscape.
It was getting dark and colder, and that means soju time with BBQ’d shell meat.
The next day we rested in a coffee house looking at pictures, nibbling sugar cakes and chatting over Americanos. There were bronze statues frozen mid song on the beach.
Hershey dog had made a friend. They ran around and chased each other all over the snowy beach freaking out dog-fearing Koreans. The tallest mountain in South Korea, Seoraksan is visible behind the beach.
We ate a big fish lunch with some ginseng wine before leaving on the slow road home. I wanted to drive through the country roads instead of the boring old highway.
It was a wonderful jaunt into the country to get ready for 2017.
Back in January, we were in the port city of Incheon, famous for McArthur’s amphibious landing during the Korean War, to pick up Jordyn’s son who had been attending a winter camp at the brand spanking new campus of Yonsei University at Incheon. There was a small fenced basketball/soccer court where we let the dogs run, strange murals and plenty of clean winter air to breathe. We talked about dorm life, studying and how hard it was to live without a cell phone for two weeks, and he actually made it about a half hour before he cranked up the YouTube and got plugged back into the net.
We were headed to Chinatown.
The Chinese settlers who came to Korea during the hermit kingdom’s awakening period of the late 19th Century settled in Incheon and it has since remained the country’s largest Chinatown. The town is definitely known for a few foods, namely Jjajangmyeon.
It’s a black bean sauced noodle dish with an assorted mix of vegetables, seafood or meat. I was never crazy about it, but I wanted to try an authentic one. Mostly it is a city delivery staple. Korean Jjajang delivery uses hard plastic plates that, when finished, you put outside your door like in a hotel and the drivers will return the next day to retrieve the soiled dishes. We also ordered the mushily fried scallops and were given a nice warm soup of egg and a small piece of crab as an appetizer. I wasn’t impressed and left feeling very empty despite the full belly, as the whole meal ran close to 80$.
There was lots of places selling puffed fried sugar bread. We bought a giant bag of 10 and found it was good for dipping in yogurt. But lots of places were selling custard bread, which was much better and similar to a cream filled cake.
Finally, we ended the day by escaping the freezing cold and relaxing in a beautiful and clean sauna.
We were off to hike Ungilsan (운길산) to see Sujongsa Temple. It was late on a Saturday afternoon, and the tables at the base weren’t yet filled with thirsty hikers.
Getting off the outer city train, following signs to the temple, past cute little houses and restaurants that looked as if they’d been closed since 2006. Most of the beginning hike was up a road, which was not cool as there was much more road noise and exhaust than I’m used to on a hike.
We came across a standing Buddha in the hills.
After a pretty easy hike with terrible annoyances by the passing cars, we made it to the temple. It had good views of “Two Heads”, where north and south Han rivers merge.
It was a beautiful temple, complete with tiny Buddhas, HD satellite TV for the monks, cute plants, amazing views and a tree that appears to be 1,000 years old.
After a snack break of beef jerky, nuts and water, we were back down the mountain in the fresh air of the forest. We went down the tree path this time and avoided the cars from the way up. We also spotted the tomb mounds that can be seen on most Korean mountains.
After the hike comes Korean rice wine and pancakes made of green mountain vegetables. We ate under the road in a red lit underpass.
After a long train ride back to Seoul, we were hungry again and went to eat Vietnamese pho simply because it was on the way home and bedtime was rapidly approaching. But, in case you’ve never seen the shared bar soap in bathrooms that have become normal to me, here it is.
“Little France” outside of Seoul, in Gapyeong, could also be called “Gauche France” or “Faux France.” It’s a ridiculous caricature of the world’s most visited country. We saw tiny alleyways made of hollow plaster, fake wooden framed cottages, cute cafes that sell ddeokboki for 7$, lame replicas of Parisian iconography, broken fountains in manicured cobblestoned plazas and generic ideas of France as imagined by someone who believes French culture to be epitomized by puppets, mimes and berets. It’s not wholly without charm, it’s just a smarmy charm. A charm that requires ignorance, the Michael Bay kind of charm. Yes, it’s a movie, but nothing is real. The place is replete with symbolic French roosters, Little Prince statues, and dubiously authentic memorabilia.
Yes, I know. I’m in Korea. What did I expect? You don’t get the moniker “Hermit Kingdom” for hundreds of years and then leap into the modern age with a fully realized vision of globally relevant cultural minutiae. Once I got past the fake, forced cute of the little hillside village asking “you think you’re better than me because you’ve been to France?” routine, and suspended my haughty disbelief, I enjoyed our time there. It’s a beautiful setting, the air is clean, people are happy and holding hands, and if you squint your eyes real tight, only letting in the dimmest glow, maybe you could think yourself among the winding streets of Montmarte or the grand boulevards of the “City of Lights”…until an ajumma pushes you out of the way to take 13 solemn pictures in front of a two meter Eiffel Tower.
Here is a collection of several of the hundreds of pictures we took this cloudy, breezy, late fall afternoon in “Petite France.”
My beautiful girlfriend, Jordyn, traveled to Japan for work last month, and since she speaks fluent Japanese, she was able to get deep into the local history and experience some authentic traditions. This one is in Fukuoka, where Jordan visited the beach with pine trees, blue skies and clear water with mountains in the distance.
Next, she arrived in the ryokan, a hot spring fed by the local volcanic springs. You can see how clean and amazing the mineral water appears. The old ladies are stirring the water to ensure an even temperature throughout the bath. At the bottom is the day and night view of the little town, Kusatsu Onsen. It’s a twelve hundred year old bathhouse located right in the middle of Japan, west of Tokyo.
Near the hot springs, lies a picturesque mountain that belies the murmuring belly of a volcano that most recently exploded in 2006. You can barely see the drizzles of smoke escaping the volcanic mouth. The little red monster, Oni, is believed to have created the volcano. There are two cute pictures of Japanese daily life in the nearby town.
Fukuoka is known as one of the best places for eating in Japan. Here is a very popular ramen noodle shop near Fukuoka Tower, Senda Honteng, with a long line of hungry customers.
There is also a viewing tower from Fukuoka Tower with cool 3-D floor art.
Japan loves presentation of food.
Night arrives in Hita, Kyushu island, with beautiful reflections.
It’s deep into the sticky Korean summer. High humidity and heavy heat keep us sweating in or out of the air/con. We begin with some lamb-chops. Dusted with rosemary seasoning and very juicy, a bottle of soju and some cold beers sooth jangled nerves.
Jordyn and I went for a nice walk with Hershey in the forests of Chuncheon. We had the local specialty of dalkgalbi 닭갈비 which is spicy chicken with vegetables and rice cake. Pictured are the before and after, as well as the Hershey dog.
The giant Lotte Tower, which will be the 5th tallest building upon completion, shines in the background of the local royal tombs/park.
A rare beach treat of a long summer weekend found us soaking in seafood and sun. We ate some wickedly delicious and pricy crab, and freshly grilled fish in the seaside village of Jumunjin 주문진. There was also some aquatic life that I didn’t recognize served. I tried most of it. It tasted as you’d expect–oceany.
The Korean coast is so beautiful and wonderful. It’s rather unexploited as well. Luckily, the Korean fear of the ocean serves up barren beaches and a chill setting for relaxation. The lack of waves is always a bummer though. James, our Jim Carrey loving young man, adores the beach and plays in the sand and sea like a blissful seal pup.
A random sushi meal’s mediocrity leaves us wishing for Japan.
This is the always crowded 묘형만두 (mandu/dumpling) restaurant in Guri. The Korean “pizza” (파전) was delightfully fried and the mandu soup was perfect and filled with clean meat and clear noodles.
A brief visit to the dog cafe in Itaewon, where pups can socialize with their peers, left Hershey’s butt over-sniffed and a wallet under-served with a 7$ coffee. But, it’s worth it to watch how adept your dog is at socializing. In the back you can see the fun-size dogs who refused entry with their pint sized barks.
Now for the pizza. At two different restaurants, I was able to find some pretty decently priced and acceptably satisfying pies in the Neapolitan style. The pasta Bolognese was also a warm comfort on a rainy afternoon.
Finally, one Saturday, we happened to find a complete surprise in relaxation and coolness. Along a little mountain stream, we dined on spicy chicken and delicate duck soup. Beers in paper cups, chilly fresh water and plenty of floor sitting makes for an authentic Korean experience.
Korea has plenty of simulation experiences. Flirtation bars with sexy, over-interested waitresses, singing rooms with alcohol delivery, and the awesome: screen golf. This particular screen golf is no screen, but in fact, more like a driving range with the ability to track your ball and a moving putting green. Don’t let the pro pose fool you, I’m 40 over par.
Along the north-eastern parts of the Han River, where the pollution diminishes and the width widens, water sports are a popular summer activity. It was nice to test out the old wake-boarding skills, but I still miss the salty Jersey bay. Jordyn did great for her first time!
Korean summer ends abruptly and promptly on August 31st every year. Despite the balmy September weather, the farmer’s almanac type belief in weather permeates Korean culture. Thus, the beaches become desolate with plenty of space for foreigners to prance about gleefully. Time for one last visit before the leaves fall. Annyeong!