An ancient church rests on the lonely hill, looking out upon the blue waters of the Adriatic. Crumbling stucco houses among the slippery streets of worn away stones. Flowerpots falling over shuttered balconies and laundry hanging to dry in the afternoon sun. It’s the classic romance of a Mediterranean coastline. We arrived via ferry from Trieste, Italy and immediately found lovely apartment accommodation with some convenient bargaining in Italian. The beaches are more pavement and rock than soft sand, but the crystal water makes up for any lack of horizontal comfort. We made a family lunch with various meats and delicious Croatian beer.