The citadel rests safely inside the moated walls of this old city. What must have been an impressively beautiful sight once, is, as most ancient things become, worn down by tourist’s feet, decades of wars and overgrown by misplaced trash. You can see the inherent beauty and try to imagine the courtyard swimming with the color of royal festivities. Entrance is about 5 US$. It is a great place for pictures and slow walking. Continue reading “Hue ~ A Fragrant City with a Slow Pace”→
On a mix of outdoor and covered patio is a comfy little place inside the walls of the imperial city of Hue. I stopped in after a long day of cycling visiting the tombs of former Vietnamese kings. I ordered a mango juice, crispy noodles with pork and vegetables, sesame beef and the Hue “speciality”–loc. It’s impossible to ruin mango juice (unless you add sugar). The crispy noodles were like slightly saucy, lightly boiled ramen noodles among bok choy, onion, garlic and pork. I liked this one. The beef was tasty but dry. Loc turned out to be thin, gelatinous rice cake wrapped around mini prawns. They were individually wrapped in a large inedible leaf and when dipped into the chili water, they absorbed a nice spiciness. The food was normally priced. I spent 170,000 dong (about 8 US$). The waitress was friendly. The old men playing cards nearby sang along to songs from such artists as Lionel Richie, Whitney Houston and Kool and the Gang; you can probably guess which songs were playing (except Kool and the Gang, it was “Cherish”).
I don’t have a picture of the noodles because I was too hungry to remember.
This place is all about ambiance. I loved the dark wood tables, the antiques scattered about the shelves and walls and of course the friendly owner, Hoa (Wha). She said I chose the best four items on her menu, which happened to be the same choices I’d made at several different local restaurants to see how the preparation varied. It is bun cha, the BBQ’d pork; cha ca, the dill flavored white fish; and Ha Noi style spring rolls. All were delicious and reasonably priced. The food wasn’t the standout here though, it is the vibe. It is quiet inside with attentive service. There are three floors, two balcony tables, and a large 20 person table. She also offers cooking lessons.
I asked her about her place and she said she owns another one, 69 Restaurant, which is 11 years old, and this is her new baby at only three years. She’s dedicated to making money for her two children, as she works as teacher in the day, and entrepreneur at night. She said family is number one priority of life.
My favorite restaurant in Seoul is not one you can stumble upon by walking through the glittering boulevards or winding city alleyways. It is a big wooden mansion set beside highway 6, east of Guri. Inside is the best duck I’ve ever eaten. For 40,000won, you can get an entire smoked duck, unlimited amounts of noodle soup, rice, kimchi and other side dishes. I realized on my last trip before leaving Korea that when the smoked duck is BBQ’d it gains a flavor similar to a high class hot dog. It’s not the best analogy, but the simple crispiness of duck skin and well charred meat creates a very familiar taste. (And what is more familiar to an American carnivore than a hot dog?) We dip it in a sweet black sauce before adding onion and jalapeno and wrapping it all in a lettuce leaf for a monster bite of delectability. The noodle guksu (thin soup) consists of rice noodle in a mix of seaweed, tofu skins and kimchi. The kimchi tastes homemade and has both varieties–spicy red and original white. There are also sweet potatoes wrapped in foil mixed in among the charcoal cooking as you eat, so don’t forget that starchy little dessert. (As an added bonus, sweet potatoes are put outside in first come first serve manner about twice every hour.) Soju, makkeolli and soda are present on all tables. It’s a place suitable for dates, entertaining, families and discerning foodies. Outside there are at least three fire pits burning with the Han River behind making a peaceful background for digestion after the big meal. Kids run around playing as adults sit sipping cocoa and coffee by the fire. It’s an experience of Korea that is worth the drive. Continue reading “Jang Jak Guui ~ Seoul’s Hidden Dining Treasure”→
When you wake up in the morning, and eggs and bacon aren’t enough. When you crave the spices of the Indian subcontinent. When you need endless plates of seasoned meat and perfectly cooked vegetables. When this is the case, make your way to Taj Palace in Itaewon. They feature a chill decor, helpful staff and delicious food–all you can eat style. The lamb vindaloo is fantastic. The chicken dishes are just right, and the strange nal bean dish is soothingly salty. I love this place for a prelude to the Saturday afternoon food coma that I often crave. There is enough to satisfy carnivores and herbivores here, as well as free naan bread.
Go out Itaewon #3 exit, walk 100 meters, turn right, walk up the hill, it’s about 70 meters on your right.
And sorry for the poor pictures, I’m still working on remembering to bring my nice camera to restaurants.
A new location hasn’t changed the charming appeal of Comedor, Itaewon’s only Paraguayan restaurant. The empanadas are excellent, especially the cheesy ham and cheese and the well seasoned, tender beef option. We ate the lasagna, and it was acceptable, as far as Korean Italian food goes. But the highlights are the empanadas, and the Chipa, a yucca and cheese mixture that is both chewy and crunchy. Continue reading “Comedor~Paraguyan Food in Seoul”→
E.A.T. 